16, The same measurements, but different pattern & fitting

Styling: Tight fit ladies skinny.

Fabric: high stretch denim

Fitting:

As we know that the different fitting and patterns are able to be created in the same measurements, I'm happy that a example can be shared below.

Below patterns and samples are base on the same measurements below.

All mmts circmference and in cms	12
Waist @ top edge	78.0
Waist – extended *	94.0
Top Hip @ 8 cm from top edge	84.0
Lower Hip @ 18cm from top edge	91.0
Thigh @ 2.5cms below fork	53.0
Knee @ 36cm from x-fork	35.0
Calf @ 10cm below knee	34.0
Hem	26.0
Front Rise – from top edge	25.0
Back Rise – from top edge	37.5
Inside Leg	76.0

Back panel ( red lines = sample version 1, black lines = sample version 2)







Front panel ( red lines = sample version 1, black lines = sample version 2)

 The fitting of sample version 1.

The fitting of sample version 2.

compare with vresion 1, the fittings look similar.

 



 However when lay flat the samples on desk, excess fabric on back thigh on the sample version 2, see below photo.
you can check the patterns, you will find the back rise angle more slant on the sample version 2, that's why excess fabric on the sample version 2.
so we can draw the conclusion that the different patterns could be created in the same measurements, and the fitting may be very similar, however its appearance lay flat  would be very different.

15, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 8

Styling: Tight fit ladies straight cut

Fabric: Stretch heavy denim

Fitting problem

Front rise pounching, see below photo.
The reason is that the crotch width is too smaller, and front rise angle too slant.

Suggestions:
Suggested amending patterns as below
1) adjust the front rise angle more straight.
2) Scoop out the front rise hook, so that the front crotch width more wider.
3) adjust the back crotch width more wider.

The correct fitting.
See below photo, this sample has been improved base on the above suggestions.

14, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 7.

Styling: Normal fit ladies short.

Fabric: Non-stretch denim.

Fitting problems:

1) front thigh width too wider to cause the front crotch width too wider, front side seam hem gapping.
2) CB hem drop down due to back crotch point too lower.
     see below photo

Fitting suggestions:

13, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 6.

Styling: Normal fit ladies skinny.

Fabric: Non-stretch denim

Question:

Does anybody want to take a try to correct the fitting of the below 1st submitted samples?
the 2nd submitted has been  improved base on my suggestions. I will release it on the next week.
Do you want to test your fitting knowledge, lets try it.

Here is the tips:
1) excess fabric around the front rise and back thigh,
2) gapping at back rise.

Updated on Jul-07-2015
Suggest amending pattern as below,

:)

12, Garment grain line issue 2.

Styling: Normal fit ladies rip short.

Fabric: Non-stretch denim

Problem:

The grain line of the back yoke is different from the body and waistband, see below photo,  to cause the back yoke appearance is different from the body and waistband.

Normal the back yoke grain line as below, keep its grain as the body and waistband.

11, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 5.

Styling: Normal ladies fit short

Fabric: Non-stretch denim

Problem:

The back rise gapping on the below two shorts, because the back rise angle is too slant.

Suggestion:

Suggest revising the pattern as the the above sketch.
and below short has been following the suggestion to improve, the fitting looks better.

10, Garment grain line issue 1.

Styling: Tight fit skinny

Fabric: Stretch fabric

Problem:

Buyer want to cut the back panels as a pair of the grain line, see below photo.

However it is impossible to do so for the twill fabric, see below photo.

 

9, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 4.

Styling: Ladies crop

Fabric: Non-stretch denim

Problems:

1) Side seam hippy.
2) Excess fabric/bubble at front rise.
3) Excess fabric at back thigh
    See below photo.

Suggestion:

Suggest amending as below pattern in blue color.

8, Measurement problem 2: no need calf width for a flare.

Styling: Normal fit flare

Fabric: Stretch denim

Problem:

The calf width too wider, to cause the seam not smooth, see below pattern.

Suggestion:

Suggest deleting the measurement of the calf, just keep the seam shape smooth from knee down to the hem opening.

		XS/8		S/10		M/12		L/14
Knee - 34cm from crotch		16.8		17.5		18.3		19.1
Calf width meas 44cm from crotch		17.8		18.5		19.3		20.1
Hem		21.8		22.5		23.3		24.1

7, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 3.

Styling: Normal mom tight fit skinny

Fabric: Stretch denim

Problems:

1) Front belly too tight.
2) Excess fabric at back thigh.
3) Back rise cut in at back thigh.
4) Leg distorted.

Suggestion:

1) The problem 1, 2 and 3, suggest revising as below patterns.

2) The problem 4, suggest revising as below patterns.
     The outside leg shape looks too straight, adjust its shape similar to body shape.

6, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 2.

Styling: Normal tight  skinny

Fabric: Stretch twill

Problem:

Front rise starring and back rise cut in at back thigh, see below photo.

 

Suggestions:

Front rise starring because the front full hip width and front thigh too tight, suggest increasing them.
Back rise cut in because back thigh width too tight, suggest increasing it.
see below amended pattern.

5, Measurement problem 1: Max top hip width for a trouser.

Styling:  Normal fit skinny

Fabric: Stretch twill

Problem:

See below size spec, top hip can not be chieved to 46cm, it should be approx 44.5cm.why?

Measurement	Sizes
Points	12	Amended spec
Waistband depth	3.3
Waist at top edge frt and back together	38
Top hip 8cm from top w/b - CURVED	46	44.5
Lower hip 18cm from top w/b - CURVED	48
Thigh width at crotch	28
Knee width at 33cm from crotch	17.5
Calf 46cm from crotch	17
Hem width	12
Front rise incl waistband	26.5
Back rise incl waistband	37.5
Inside leg	74

1) Waistband would be too shape/curved if keep top hip width at 46cm.
     and it looks too strange and not fit the body, see below pattern.
     however waistband shape looks OK when top hip width at 44.5cm
     

2) Why 46cm top hip to cause waistband too shape.
    The body waist line width woule be more wider if top hip width to be increased,
     and in order to correctly attach waistband into the body waist line,
     the under edge of waistband should be increased too,
     but top edge of waistband at 38cm, no change,
     so waistband would get a more shape if top hip increased,
     see and below patterns.
    

 3) Top hip at 44.5cm as below sample.

 Another option

If you really want to maintain the top hip width at 46cm, the top edge of waist width should be increased to 40.5cm, in order to keep a normal shape of waistband, see below photo.

4, Garment defeats collection 1

Front rise seam puckering.
suggest revising front rise hook more straight, not so curve, and sewer should slow down the sewing speed and carefully feed in the marchine along the rise shape.

CF fly bubble

Plastic pin holes for backing

Rivets on the right position

CF fly off center

3, How to re-balance a ladies' short 2.

Styling: Normal tight fit short.

Fabric quality: Non-stretch denim

Problem:

The front hem dipping down and back hem lifting up, see below photo.

Suggestion:

Suggest correcting as below pattern.

2, How to re-balance a ladies' short 1.

---- Styling: Ladies normal fit short

---- Fabric: not-stretch denim

---- Problem and suggestions.

1) Back leg dipping and front rise excess fabric,

Suggest lifting front and back rise, that mean front rise and back rise to be reduced by 0.5cm, see below photo and pattern.

 

2) Side seam hanging up and outside hem sticking out,

Suggest increasing thigh width by 1cm, and reduce hem width by 1cm, in order to get a straight side seam from top waist to hem, see below photo and pattern

 

3)  Inseam too forward, so suggest reduce back hem width, see below photo and  pattern.

 

 

4) Revised measurement points base on the above suggestions.

 

Measurement	Sizes
Points	12	Suggest spec
Thigh width at crotch	32.5	33.5
Hem width	31.5	30.5
Front rise incl waistband	27	26.5
Back rise incl waistband	39	38.5
Outside leg length inc waistband	39	40

---- Amendments

        Factory has followed the above suggestions to proceed new samples as below photo.
        the results: hem more level from CF to CB
                           hem at side seam less sticking out.
                           the whole short fitting balance more better.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 1.

• Styling: Tight fit trouser.
• Fabric quality: high stretch twill
• Problem:

          Front rise puckering, see below photo.
          The front panel tight horizontally around CF rise seam,
          because the front full hip width, front thigh width is tight.
         

• Resolution:

          Suggest increasing the front full hip width and the front thigh width as below pattern.
          front rise hook to be fill in approx 0.5cm, front thigh width to be increased by approx 0.5cm