16, The same measurements, but different pattern & fitting

Styling: Tight fit ladies skinny.

Fabric: high stretch denim

Fitting:

As we know that the different fitting and patterns are able to be created in the same measurements, I'm happy that a example can be shared below.

Below patterns and samples are base on the same measurements below.

All mmts circmference and in cms	12
Waist @ top edge	78.0
Waist – extended *	94.0
Top Hip @ 8 cm from top edge	84.0
Lower Hip @ 18cm from top edge	91.0
Thigh @ 2.5cms below fork	53.0
Knee @ 36cm from x-fork	35.0
Calf @ 10cm below knee	34.0
Hem	26.0
Front Rise – from top edge	25.0
Back Rise – from top edge	37.5
Inside Leg	76.0

Back panel ( red lines = sample version 1, black lines = sample version 2)







Front panel ( red lines = sample version 1, black lines = sample version 2)

 The fitting of sample version 1.

The fitting of sample version 2.

compare with vresion 1, the fittings look similar.

 



 However when lay flat the samples on desk, excess fabric on back thigh on the sample version 2, see below photo.
you can check the patterns, you will find the back rise angle more slant on the sample version 2, that's why excess fabric on the sample version 2.
so we can draw the conclusion that the different patterns could be created in the same measurements, and the fitting may be very similar, however its appearance lay flat  would be very different.

15, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 8

Styling: Tight fit ladies straight cut

Fabric: Stretch heavy denim

Fitting problem

Front rise pounching, see below photo.
The reason is that the crotch width is too smaller, and front rise angle too slant.

Suggestions:
Suggested amending patterns as below
1) adjust the front rise angle more straight.
2) Scoop out the front rise hook, so that the front crotch width more wider.
3) adjust the back crotch width more wider.

The correct fitting.
See below photo, this sample has been improved base on the above suggestions.

14, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 7.

Styling: Normal fit ladies short.

Fabric: Non-stretch denim.

Fitting problems:

1) front thigh width too wider to cause the front crotch width too wider, front side seam hem gapping.
2) CB hem drop down due to back crotch point too lower.
     see below photo

Fitting suggestions:

13, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 6.

Styling: Normal fit ladies skinny.

Fabric: Non-stretch denim

Question:

Does anybody want to take a try to correct the fitting of the below 1st submitted samples?
the 2nd submitted has been  improved base on my suggestions. I will release it on the next week.
Do you want to test your fitting knowledge, lets try it.

Here is the tips:
1) excess fabric around the front rise and back thigh,
2) gapping at back rise.

Updated on Jul-07-2015
Suggest amending pattern as below,

:)

12, Garment grain line issue 2.

Styling: Normal fit ladies rip short.

Fabric: Non-stretch denim

Problem:

The grain line of the back yoke is different from the body and waistband, see below photo,  to cause the back yoke appearance is different from the body and waistband.

Normal the back yoke grain line as below, keep its grain as the body and waistband.

11, How to correct the fitting for the bottom 5.

Styling: Normal ladies fit short

Fabric: Non-stretch denim

Problem:

The back rise gapping on the below two shorts, because the back rise angle is too slant.

Suggestion:

Suggest revising the pattern as the the above sketch.
and below short has been following the suggestion to improve, the fitting looks better.

10, Garment grain line issue 1.

Styling: Tight fit skinny

Fabric: Stretch fabric

Problem:

Buyer want to cut the back panels as a pair of the grain line, see below photo.

However it is impossible to do so for the twill fabric, see below photo.